GRUNT RUSH
1. Town Hall, Farm, Barracks, Gold.
2. Farm, Farm, Farm, Farm, Lumber.
3. Smith, Gold.
4. Barracks, Gold.
5. Gold.
6. Gold.
7. Gold.
8. Gold.
9. Gold.
10. Lumber.
11. Lumber.
12. Lumber.
13. Barracks.
This should suffice. There a few variatiosn in which a person builds a second smith early
to upgrade quickly. You may also want to build a lumber mill early instead of upgrades
to make the trasition to lust a bit qiuckly. If you're fast enough at building you should be
able to utilize the third barracks a bit sooner.
DOPE GRUNT RUSH
This is a grunt rush almost late enogh to be an ogre rush, but it works very well, here’s
the order. It is kinda standard.
1. Town hall, farm, barracks, gold
2. Farm, farm, gold
3. Gold
4. Farm, farm, gold
5. Farm, and build when needed
6. Gold
7. Barracks, barracks, gold
8. Gold
9. Gold
10. Gold
11. Lumber
12. Lumber
13. Blacksmith, lumber
14. Lumber
15. Lumber
16. Lumber
17.Lumber
This grunt rush won’t be the greatest in the first 3 min, but once you hit 5 min..... your
opponent is DEAD. Try to build 5 barracks and then upgrade to stronghold. Also, it
REALLY helps to tower tyour opponent right before you attack.
JESTERS GRUNT RUSH
A fairly modern order, Jester worked this order out with Mine the Center in mind. It
really does suit it perfectly. Jesters original method was suceptible to a quick Kuei rush
so the following is an improved order by TillerMaN. Again this is a flexible order that
will safely allow you to grunt effectively, and if it is needed you can advance all the way
to lust just as fast as the next man.
Build Order
1 - Town Hall, Farm, Barracks, Gold.
2 - Farm, and continually makes farms until they are no longer required.
3 - BlackSmith, Gold.
4 - Repairs Barracks, Repairs Blacksmith, Gold.
5 - Repairs Barracks, Repares Blacksmith, Gold.
6 - Gold.
7 - Gold.
8 - Gold.
9 - Gold.
10 - Gold.
11 - Gold.
12 - Gold.
13 - Lumber.
14 - 2nd barracks then wood.
15 - Lumber.
16 - Lumber.
17 - Lumber.
18 - Mill, Lumber.
Deploy Peons on wood and gold as required.
Main Tips
Once the barracks is complete you instantly start producing grunts. If you have to choose
between a grunt and a peon pick the grunt. You continually make grunts until you are
able to produce ogres. When your opponent is not rushing you can get by with a handful
of grunts.
Once the blacksmith is completed you continually upgrade to level 5 with no pausing
between upgrades, assuming your opponent is rushing which surprise surprise is fairly
common. If you are playing versus a rusher you wait for him to attack you.
No matter if he is doing a 1 or 2 barrack rush he will not hurt you. You will always have
superior numbers to him. Once the lvl5 smith upgrade is nearly done you select all your
grunts and start making your way to your opponents base. Your opponent will be lucky if
he has got lvl4 by the time you arrive. You will get to him just as lvl5 is trained.
Standard grunting techniqes come into play once you arrive at his base.
LEVEL 1 REPAIR RUSH
TillerMaN's 8 peon order
This is easily the most popular version of the Kuei Rush and was invented by TillerMaN
after Agent911 explained the concept to him. He used it effectively on Friends for
months before revealing his order to a select few. Although Kuei rushing is an advanced
strat used by experienced players it is very simple to do. Only four farms are built which
gives you sixteen food spaces, plus one food space for the Town Hall giving you a total
of seventeen available food spots. Eight spots are used up by peons which leaves nine
spots for grunts.
Build Order
1 - Town Hall, Farm, 1st Barracks, Repairs BlackSmith, Gold.
2 - Farm, Farm, Farm, Gold.
3 - 2nd Barracks, Gold.
4 - BlackSmith, Gold.
5 - Repairs BlackSmith, Gold.
6 - Repairs BlackSmith, Gold.
7 - Gold.
8 - Gold.
Main Tips
All peons eventually go on gold once they have performed their tasks. As soon as your
barracks are completed you start the production of grunts, remember speed is the key to
this rush.
Once your BlackSmith is built you instantly upgrade your shields. You upgrade the smith
all the way too Lvl3 with no pauses between upgrades. If your opponent is rushing, you
get the lvl4 upgrade also although in most cases an opponent is dead by this time. When
it is Kuei vs Kuei the lvl4 upgrade is crucial.
With the exception of Friends and One way In One way Out you are not aware of your
opponents starting position which makes it necessary to scout for your opponent. From
experience it is advisable to use your first two grunts for scouting, sending them in
opposite directions. You must locate your opponent by the time your ninth grunt is
trained. With an opponent located you regroup your grunts back at your base awaiting the
arrival of your ninth and final grunt. Remember, do not let your scouting grunt die. As
soon as you have scouted an opponent run him back to your base.
Once you have nine grunts, select them all and run to your opponents base patrolling all
the way. Once you arrive use normal techniques too overpower the enemy.
Advanced Points
When your ninth grunt is in training you can also train a ninth peon, tricking your farms.
This peon is used to make a fifth farm and is then put on gold.
If after scouting your enemy you see he is walling in(which is unlikely on the maps cited
above) you must change your strategy immediately to allow for the production of peons,
because in the long run you will die with only eight peons. Attack a wallin instantly with
all available grunts, you may be able to break in before a tower is erected. A wallin will
usually thwart a kuei rush so be aware that the Kuei is best used on maps where
opponents cannot or do not usually wallin.
POWEL'S 5 PEON ORDER
Powel worked out his order after being killed by TillerMaN by the eight peon version on
Friends. TillerMaN would not reveal the order of his rush too Powel so Powel
reconstructed it and came up with this 5 peon order.
Powel successfully used the order for quite some time and it is still being used to some
extent today. Only three farms are built which gives you twelve food spaces, plus one
food space for the Town Hall giving you a total of thirteen available food spots. Five
spots are used up by peons which leaves eight spots for grunts.
Build Order
1 - Town Hall, Farm, 1st Barracks, Repairs BlackSmith, Gold.
2 - Farm, Farm, Gold.
3 - 2nd Barracks, Gold.
4 - BlackSmith, Gold.
5 - Repairs BlackSmith, Gold.
Main Tips
Exactly as above except with a reduced set of grunts peons plus you never go lvl4.
JUSTIN'S GRUNT RUSH
This form of Grunt rush is different from almost all others, but quiet simple. You should
end up winning quick! Also, some people call this dishonoable, no way! If I win, I win, I
don’t brake any rules, I just had a better strategy at that!
1. Barracks, farm, farm, town hall, farm(and continue farms)
2. Gold
3. Gold
4. Gold
5. Blacksmith, gold
6. Gold
7. Gold
8. Gold
9. Gold
10. Lumber
11. Lumber
12. Barracks, lumber
13. Lumber
With this simple strat you should win easily if you can find your opponent. Try to right
away. Also, you should have 8 grunts by the time they have 3, this is very helpful. Go
for upgrades often, not stopping at 3. Also, remember not to stop building peons. If you
have to choose between a peon and a grunt choose peon unles it is very early.
STANDARD GRUNT RUSH
This is a fairly standard build order that is suitable to most players needs. It can be used
on any land map. It will enable you to effectively switch between strats as needed. You
can effectively go all the way to fortress as quickly as someone who is behind a wallin.
The Build Order
1 - Town Hall, Farm, Barracks, Gold.
2 - Farm, and continually makes farms.
3 - BlackSmith, Gold.
4 - Gold.
5 - Gold.
6 - Gold.
7 - Gold.
8 - Gold.
Peons go on Gold until you roughly have 12, then you start chopping lumber and build a
mill once you have 5 choppers.
Upgrade at the blacksmith continually until you achieve lvl3 then stop, only upgrade past
lvl3 if you are playing against a grunt rusher or think you can kill your opponent with
grunts alone. Scouting should be done with your first grunt only. How your game
develops after this depends on what your opponent is doing. If he is 2 barrack rushing
you may need to get a 2nd barracks fairly soon. If he has walled in you won't need a 2nd
barracks until ogres come into play. The point being, no matter what strategy your
opponent uses you can deal with them all with this very sound order.
OGRE RUSH
1. Town Hall, Farm, Barracks, Gold.
2. Farm, Farm, Farm, Farm, Lumber.
3. Smith, Gold.
4. Gold.
5. Gold.
6. Gold.
7. Gold.
8. Gold.
9. Gold.
10. Lumber.
11. Lumber.
12. Lumber.
After hitting 12 peons you'll want to upgrade to a Stronghold and throw up your second
barracks. Your grunts should be level 3 by the time it's done upgrading to the stronghold.
You will probably want to build a farm at this time also. Once your hall is upgraded, start
a 13th peon and immediately peel a peon from lumber to build the Ogre Mound for you.
After this, keep up on farms, consider a third barracks and start upgrading you Ogres and
cranking them out.
LUST RUSH
A very successful strategy that you'll eventually see online is one that focuses not on early
offense, or any offense really, until bloodlust is obtained. If you see an opponent who
walls in early, doesn't upgrade their troops quickly and seems to not be doing much
offensively, get a clue, and get one quick. You're already behind if you've not punched
through the wall-in and gotten to their peon line. And if you have and the game isn't over
yet, then you'd better be fast on your way to bloodlust on your own.
The essentials of this strategy are interesting.
Offense is minimal early. This strategy generally only runs one barracks early (though
some do get two going in the early game in reaction to an opponent). The problem with
attempting an offense in the early game with this strategy is that it costs gold, lots of it.
You have to build extra structures, towers and play fast to get this going right. As such, 6
grunts is a costly investment. As such, scout, and scout well. But keep a defensive force
early and not an offensive force.
Don't overextend. Many players will get greedy and spread themselves a bit too thin early
in the game reaching for a second mine. In doing so, they trade off time and resources,
allowing their opponent an early and detrimental offensive advantage. If you take a
second mine (which you should) take the closest mine and the most easily accessible. If
you have to throw you lumber mill next to some trees and hack through them, do so.
Remember, you have plenty of time on a 60k mine to work your way to bloodlust. You
can usually hit lust on a 30k mine if you play your cards right (Don't tell those at Case's
this or you'll be branded a cheater).
Gold. Gold. Gold. This strategy is very dependent on early resources to get the structures
necessary for bloodlust and to get the support for several barracks pushing out a
nightmarish horde of ogres. This is why I advocate the you center your barracks and try to
narrow the entrance or wallin the area for two mines. This allows you an easier late
game, easy early game expansion and provides lots of gold. It's not hard to do, and most
opponents will be lazy enough to let you do this. It's also rather confusing if done well,
your opponent really won't know where to centralize their attacks and will come to waste
a large portion of their offensive against your meager defenses. The most important
element of this strategy is more resources. If your opponent does the same, do it better.
More ogres. More barracks. More Death Knights. All require more resources.
How to beat it.
Lust back. If you are using the same strategy in the early game and find your opponent
doing this, or if you're not overly commited to an alternate strategy, then turn to the lust
game yourself. Just play it better than your opponent. As I said before, more barracks,
more ogres, more DKs. Maybe a dragon or two for the peon line. A sapper or two to bust
through the trees and get a few ogres on the inside (where their ogres shouldn't be). Sit by
your opponent with a group of ogres and then lust up. Your opponent will defensively
lust. Then wait a few seconds and start a second lusting of all of your units. Your
opponent probably won't catch what's going on for a minute, then attack. Your ogres will
stay lusted and his should run out.
Don't be offensive. This is where I lose the majority of my games against this strategy. I
spent too much time trying to break through and too little time trying to make sure that I
can keep up later in the game. This strategy is a mid-game/late-game speed focused game
in which you're left in the dust (perhaps pounded into the dust is better) if you don't keep
up. If you don't break through early in the game, don't bother. My recommendation, take
more mines. Get more gold. Play the strategy better. Your opponent has given you no
offensive challenge in the early game so make them suffer for that. Such an opportunity
is rare in this game. If your opponent gives that to you then give the same to them.
Lock out. In a team game this is my favorite strategy against this game play. Simply
prevent your opponent from getting more gold. It's not that hard. Withstand the offense
(when it does come) minimalize the success of barracks (sappres and death knights tend
to remove them quickly) and then, when your opponent makes their final desperation run
for a gold mine shut them off. This should be an easy tactic; remember, your opponent
isn't looking for offense in the early game and will easily let you take another gold mine.
Once you've done that you've ensured your advantage. Just scout well and then exploit
the one true weakness of every strategy, it needs resources.
The build order
1. Town Hall, Farm, Barracks, Gold.
2. Farm, Farm, Farm, Farm, Lumber.
3. Smith, Lumber Mill, Lumber.
4. Gold.
5. Gold.
6. Gold.
7. Gold.
8. Gold.
9. Gold.
10. Gold.
11. Lumber.
12. Lumber.
DRAGON RUSH
1. Town Hall, Farm, Barracks, Gold.
2. Farm, Farm, Farm, Farm, Lumber.
3. Smith, Lumber Mill, Lumber.
4. Gold.
5. Gold.
6. Gold.
7. Gold.
8. Gold.
9. Gold.
10. Gold.
11. Lumber.
12. Lumber.
Some people like to go with a heavy tower defensive to allow the structures to be built
quickly without much hassle. I say go with the barracks (maybe two) and then keep you
opponent busy with an early rush of grunts and a short rush of Ogres. Then keep your
defenses up and surprise your opponent with a burst of about 6 dragons or so. I
recommend building 3 dragon roosts. Something that I've found important about this
strategy. Abandon the dragons. Once you send out 6 or so, go heavy, heavy Ogres and
rush. Your opponent will throw up a few towers and crank out a few axe throwers
normally. This puts them a bit low on resources and very, very low on defense in the
short term for a ground attack. This is a game in which you hope your opponent
"over-corrects" for you strategy, not one in which you hope to beat your opponent with
the dragons.
SUB RUSH
The submarine rush was first worked out in collaboration between two players, Agent911
and Papalooey. The theory behind it is simple. If you can have subs very early on in the
game your opponent will not be able to take control of the sea. Having control of the sea
on Xmarks can be crucial especially if your opponent has not yet left his home island. In
this case, even a bad player would find it very difficult to lose.
Strengths
A sub rush will more often than not beat the more popular jug rush. When subs are
handled correctly they should be very difficult to hit with the attack ground command of
the jugger. If you are facing a destroyer rush start laughing very loud because destroyers
do not have an attack ground command. A solitary sub will be enough to defeat 50
destroyers. Another major advantage is you have flyers very early. It will enable you to
see exactly what strat your opponent is doing and they will be useful if you have to break
into an expansion quickly.
Weaknesses
If an opponent manages to get both islands early you can be screwed. You will be able to
take him off sea ok, it's just that by the time you get your res together and get off your
island he can have both islands heavily defended. You will have an alchemist at hand to
train sappers, and you should be able to break into at least one of the two islands securing
yourself an expansion.
Its obviously a totally useless strat against someone who has decided to avoid building
shipyards at all and has hopped to one or both islands. In this case you better get your ass
into gear and force him out of one of the islands with some sappers and grunts.
Agent911's goal with this build order was too aquire a single submarine in the fastest
possible time. It achieves this goal perfectly.
Build Order
1 - Town Hall, Farm, Barracks, Repairs Mill, Repairs Shipyard, Repairs Alchemist, Gold.
2 - Repairs Barracks, Repairs Mill, Repairs Shipyard, Repairs Alchemist, Gold.
3 - Repairs Barracks, Repairs Mill, Repairs Shipyard, Repairs Alchemist, Gold.
4 - Lumber Mill, Shipyard, Goblins Alchemist, Gold.
Once you get 500 gold pull a peon from gold and build your 2nd farm then your 3rd farm.
The next few peons should be put on lumber and your main aim after taking control of
the sea with subs should be for a foundry to get off your island as quickly as possible.
As soon as the barracks is completed upgrade your Town Hall to Stronghold instantly. It
is very easy to forget to upgrade and remember 30seconds later but it is absolutely crucial
you upgrade straight away.
As soon as your alchemist is completed train a sub at the Shipyard and a flyer at the
Alchemist. Although you only have 1 available food spot because you trained two units
simultaneously the game will allow the production of both. You of course will owe your
farms 1 food spot which is taken back when you build further farms.
You cannot build multiple subs until your second farm is built. As soon as the sub is
trained send it over to your opponents shores along with your flyer to see what he is up
too.
TOMMYNG STRAT
The infamous TommyNG, ahhh. The good old days of Cases Ladder. This low res grunt
rush order became famous because of its inventor and the only map he would play- 1 way
in 1 way out. He managed to get all the way to No1 on the ladder by doing this strategy
alone.
The one thing that we will give him credit for is inventing probably the cleverest War2
strategy yet. It is dastardly in its thinking and is a credit to how versatile War2 is as a
game.
Build Order
1 - Town Hall, Farm, Gold.
2 - Gold.
3 - Lumber, Repair Barrack
4 - Lumber, Repair Barrack
5 - Lumber, Save up 450 wood, Barracks, Gold
The 2 repairing Peons only start mending the barracks once 100 lumber has been brought
in.
When the barracks is nearing completion (100hp's left to go), have 1 of the peons attack
the other repairing peon until he is dead. As he dies the barracks will complete and you
will be able to begin the construction of 1 grunt. There are still 2 peons next too the
barracks and whilst the grunt is training kill one of your peons off then send the
remaining peon onto gold. Train a 2nd grunt as the first one finishes.
You can either now, pull all your peons from gold and send them with your grunts too
attack your enemy or leave them on gold and just send the 2 grunts. Either works fine.
When you arrive at your opponents base you will "probably" see his barracks nearly
completed as most people go 2 farm rush or even 3 farm rush.
That is why it is a good strat on a map where you know where your opponent is going to
be or likely to be. Good maps for this strat are 1 way in 1 way out, Nwtr(see Nwtr in the
maps tactics section to see how it is accomplished on that), Friends.pud, Arena.pud.
- Note many of these strats were taking from other pages such
as RTSGamer:
and
War 2 armory: